2002 Honda CRF450
I got the CRF in the summer of 2004 for $4000. It had extremely low hours, and was pretty well maintained. Below are a few additions/changes that I’ve made.
MX Bonz Airbox Fix
Anybody who has a 2002 CRF or a CR from around the same time knows about the airbox problems. This review might be a useless point, since a bike with this problem left unfixed, may not be in such great shape.
Anyways, I read a much better review about the MX Bonz kit compared to the PC Racing kit. The MX Bonz kit consists of two CNC’d aluminum rings that bolt together to clamp the airbox boot to the airbox, and create a flat sealing surface for the air filter. One ring goes outside of the airbox against the boot, and the other is inside against the airbox. The through-bolts are 1/4-20 countersunk socket head bolts.
The install required a lot of silicone, and I found it to be a lot easier to do if the airbox was disassembled. It is held together with a few aluminum rivets, which are easy to remove and replace.
So far it had been great. My boot stays spotless and free of dust, and I can feel that the filter is securely clamped to a good surface.
I can’t compare the MX Bonz kit to a PC Racing kit for a CRF, but I did come across a 2003 CR250 with the PC Racing kit and a UNI filter, which sucked in a ton of sand. The PC racing kit for the CR is very poorly thought out, and there is a section at the lower left corner of the filter where you can squeeze a finger through with very little effort.
Acerbis Hand Guards
The flag guards are no longer, and have been replaced with Acerbis Rally Pro handguards. They actually work.
IMS 3.2 gal tank
It's nice to have extra gas. The fit with the shrouds leaves a bit to be desired, and there's a gap where the shrouds don't touch the tank (see pic of guards), but otherwise no complaints.
Works Connection Radiator Braces / MSR Guards
My radiators are still in one piece (or two pieces if you want to get technical). After a number of high-speed unintentional “rest stops,” the radiators still work fine. Definitely an essential addition if you don’t think radiator replacement is regular maintenance. It would be better to have a 1-piece guard/brace, and one that covers the tanks, but the bike already had the WC braces on it.
Works Connection Skid Plate
I had enough dings and a crack in the case of my WR, so this was another no-brainer. It’s a skid plate. Enough said.
Pro Circuit Triple Clamps
These came with the bike, so I can’t really compare the rideability to that with the stock clamps. What I can say is that the design of the handlebar clamps is terrible. Instead of using d-head through-bolts, there are studs in the bottom half of the handlebar clamps that go through the top triple. When you lay it down hard enough, the stainless stud stays straight, and bends the threaded bore in the bottom section of the handlebar clamp. Pro Circuit won’t sell that part by itself, and will only do the entire handlebar clamp assembly for almost $100. I replaced it with a set of Pro Taper clamps that have through bolts. When I get around to it, I’ll make some new lower sections so I can use the Pro Circuit handlebar clamp again. For the time being, things are fine.
Pro Moto Billet Spark Arrestor
Fork Bleeders
For anyone who has dropped a bleeder screw in the desert sand, these are priceless. Unload the bike, put it on the stand, push the buttons, and they’re ready to go.
Pipe Popper
Sometimes when you’re riding, you get tired, and want to lay your bike down and let it rest. Or you see something on the ground and you want to stop and pick it up. Ha-ha, I’ve heard them all. Crashes happen, and the CRF’s titanium headpipe often gets nailed first. Rather than buy a new one, it’s fairly easy to pop them back out. Depending on the damage and your equipment, the final result varies in cosmetic appeal, but it works.
This method involves pressurizing the pipe and heating up the offending sections so they pop out. Care must be taken to not use too much pressure or leave the torch in one spot for too long. Around 50psi is fairly safe. I’m pretty sure a propane torch won’t get it hot enough, but I haven’t tried.
Before, during, and after.
On the head side, you need a flat surface with two bolts and a piece of inner tube to seal. On the muffler side, an internal plumbing plug works. You must safety wire it, or it will come out.
Good Times